U.S. Navy recruiting poster– circa 1917. She’s sporting standard naval issue enlisted dress blues– or “crackerjacks” as they were commonly called in reference to the sailor boy on the popular Cracker Jack box.
Women have served as an integral and invaluable part of the U.S. Navy since the establishment of the Nurse Corps in 1908. Nine years later, the Navy authorized the enlistment of women as “Yeomanettes.” In 1948, the Women’s Armed Services Integration Act was signed, making it possible for women to officially enter the U.S. Navy in regular or reserve status.
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It’s commonly thought that the “bell bottom” trouser was introduced in 1817 to permit men to roll them above the knee when washing down the decks– and to make it easier to remove them in a hurry when forced to abandon ship or when washed overboard. Old Navy folklore has suggested that they may have also been used as a life preserver– by knotting the legs at the opening and filling them with air.
Recesionista is one of those buzzwords of 2008 that’s getting a little overplayed. In my small world, it’s feeling more like Great Depressionista— in regard to fashion and the economy. Looking at these pictures from the 40’s, they look like what you see in a lot of Soho shops & vintage Americana brands these days like– RRL, LVC, Warehouse, etc. There are great, rugged pieces, and little, honest details not to be missed– like our friend’s chambray workshirt (above) that’s been mended time and again over the years– out of necessity, not for fashion. That looks like a great old pair of Levi 501s. I like how the front belt-loops are placed nice and snug to the fly.
Cool Hand Lukestarring Paul Newman is a classic film, and without a doubt one of my favorites. It’s Newman’s greatest performance, in a film loaded with powerhouse acting. You’ve got George Kennedy, Dennis Hopper, Harry Dean Stanton, Jo Van Fleet, Strother Martin (What we’ve got here is “failure to communicate”) and Dick Davalos, to name a few. Don’t know who Dick Davalos is? He played Blind Dick, and is best remembered as Aaron Trask, opposite James Dean’s Cal Trask in East of Eden.
Speaking of James Dean– the role of Lucas Jackson would more than likely been his– not Newman’s, had he not been killed in a fatal car crash. Dean would have starred in The Left Handed Gun, Somebody Up There Likes Me and probably Hud as well. Not to take anything away from Paul Newman, but Dean was definitely the bigger star back then, and his passing gave Newman a clear path to instant stardom.
Cool Hand Luke is visually rich with incredibly authentic sets, cultural cues, wardrobe and styling. I wanted to live in that prison bunkhouse. What was so bad? They got to hang-out, enjoy cold drinks, eat eggs and such.
I became obsessed with the old chain-gang garb, and own several beat-up, RRL denim chore coats because of it. Chore coats are an iconically American piece– worn by laborers, convicts, artists and plain everyday folk. And another American icon– the classic chambray workshirt is in there too.
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There was nothing not to like in this film– even the hair. Carr the floor walker, and Blind Dick had very cool D.A.’s. And what about the incredible score, Harry Dean Stanton’s crooning, and Paul Newman singing and playing banjo on Plastic Jesus? The film is pregnant with comparisons of Luke to Jesus. Luke is their leader– his crucifixion pose after eating the eggs– “stop feeding off of me!” alluding to communion– Dragline as ‘Judas’ bringing the cops to Luke in the final scene– on and on. There are some many famous lines in Cool Hand Luke that I could be here all day– “shaking it up here boss!”
I had a blast “getting my Redd on” with friends at the Warwick Hotel today. The Haberdashery Show starts Saturday in NYC, so all of us“Reddextended family members” put in a fun day of folding shirts, dressing rigs and pinning boards to get ready for the event. It’s personally rewarding to be a part of something special likeRobert Redd. I regret forgetting my camera, but Carol saved the day and snapped a few pics while we were setting up. The photo above was taken in the afternoon before we were completely done, but you’ll get the idea.
Known for their signature knit shirts in a breadth of color- Robert Redd has now expanded their product range to include sportshirts, sweaters and accessories that are sure to please diehard followers along with adding some new.Robert Reddis based in Charlottesville, VA and run by a couple of great guys- owner Robert Matheson and Eric Jones. It’s a brand that believes in telling their story through beautiful product more than selling you their mark- there are no logos on Robert Redd shirts. I know I’ve said this before, but they do a great knit shirt with a self-collar and open sleeve- The Charles.
Robert Redd is definitely a brand whose time has come– so you have my permission to get a Redd onfor the ladies.
When did design get so trendy? Seems like everyone I know now– even the garbage man, for cryin’ out loud— knows about Pantone. The world is getting smaller every minute, people. Anyhow– The Gap’s Patrick Robinson brings very wearable color, and a welcome fun, graphic punch into The Gap, with this cool– even if it isn’t quite original– Pantone partnership.
It’s no coincidence or surprise at all, that the previous post on Mad Men got me thinking about Thom Browne…
There seems to be some activity over at the soon-to-be Black Fleece shop in the West Village. Thom Browne & Brooks Bros. acquired the space some time back, and workers are finally on the scene– painting walls and cleaning up. Let’s hope it opens soon. Thom Browne has given rise to an army of well-dressed men in their shrunken suits & bare ankles- I’m just not sure the look is for everyone. If I were a statuesque guy, I might feel like I was wearing my little brother’s suit. Know your limitations guys.
Junya Watanabe’s (of Comme des Garcons) Spring 2009 collection is a very fitted & fresh mix of American menswear “classics with a twist”. Collaborations with iconic prepster brands- Brooks Brothers, Levi’s, Lacoste and Baracuta made for some funky updates to familiar models, patterns and fabrics. What also makes it youthful is eye-catching denim pieces and cool hats thrown in.
The Selvedge Yard 