February 25, 2010 by JP - 13 Comments

THE TRENCH COAT MAFIA | ICONIC OUTERWEAR THAT’S ALWAYS IN STYLE

“The trench coat is the only thing that has kept its head above water.”

–Jack Lipman

Having spent years ridin’ the rails on the commuter train in-and-out of Manhattan, there are clearly two leading outerwear icons that are inescapable– the Barbour Beaufort, and the timeless Burberry Trench. Both are must-haves for the Northeastern climate in terms of their functionality, versatility and style. It’s not uncommon at all the see a Barbour over a sportcoat or suit, although I oft feel the length and proportions are somewhat off– not to mention I like to keep the Barbour waxed within an inch of it’s life, and therefore it’s not exactly the best companion for co-mingling with tailored clothing. For me, there’s nothing better than seeing a seasoned, well put-together professional sporting the old school classic essentials– Ghurka bag, Burberry trench, J. Press suit, and cordovans. The trench is tearin’ up the runway right now, but don’t buy it for the reviews– wear it for its epic merits.

Now, if only proper headwear would make a comeback– and I’m not talking about knit caps.

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1985– Artist David Hockney Smoking Cigar Outside Barn. –Image by © Michael Childers/Corbis

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January 30, 2009 by JP - 6 Comments

OLD NAVY

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U.S. Navy recruiting poster– circa 1917. She’s sporting standard naval issue enlisted dress blues– or “crackerjacks” as they were commonly called in reference to the sailor boy on the popular Cracker Jack box.

Women have served as an integral and invaluable part of the U.S. Navy since the establishment of the Nurse Corps in 1908. Nine years later, the Navy authorized the enlistment of women as “Yeomanettes.” In 1948, the Women’s Armed Services Integration Act was signed, making it possible for women to officially enter the U.S. Navy in regular or reserve status.

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It’s commonly thought that the “bell bottom” trouser was introduced in 1817 to permit men to roll them above the knee when washing down the decks– and to make it easier to remove them in a hurry when forced to abandon ship or when washed overboard. Old Navy folklore has suggested that they may have also been used as a life preserver– by knotting the legs at the opening and filling them with air.

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January 20, 2009 by JP - 1 Comment

Thom Browne for Moncler, Fall 2009.

Eddie Bauer is credited for inventing and patenting the first quilted down jacket in America, back in 1940. However, Moncler is synonymous with ‘down for the jet set’, and for Fall 2009 they unveiled Gamme Blue– a collection designed by Thom Browne. The looks are classic Thom Browne in terms of tailoring, and the very ‘tight and trad’ color story echoes Moncler’s heritage. Some of the looks are very editorial, and therefore down-right silly. Others are just what you expect when you think Thom Browne + Moncler.

Moncler’s story goes back to 1952 when they started producing technical mountain sports gear. They say their first down jacket came about when the Moncler workers made them for their own wearing inside the factory during the colder months. Necessity is the mother of invention, right?

Link to Gamme Blue story and images

Link to Moncler.com

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January 20, 2009 by JP - 1 Comment

COOL HAND LUKE | SOMETIMES A CHORE COAT CAN BE A REAL COOL HAND

Cool Hand Luke starring Paul Newman is a classic film, and without a doubt one of my favorites. It’s Newman’s greatest performance, in a film loaded with powerhouse acting. You’ve got George Kennedy, Dennis Hopper, Harry Dean Stanton, Jo Van Fleet, Strother Martin (What we’ve got here is “failure to communicate”) and Dick Davalos, to name a few. Don’t know who Dick Davalos is? He played Blind Dick, and is best remembered as Aaron Trask, opposite James Dean’s Cal Trask in East of Eden.

Speaking of James Dean– the role of Lucas Jackson would more than likely been his– not Newman’s, had he not been killed in a fatal car crash. Dean would have starred in The Left Handed Gun, Somebody Up There Likes Me and probably Hud as well. Not to take anything away from Paul Newman, but Dean was definitely the bigger star back then, and his passing gave Newman a clear path to instant stardom.

Cool Hand Luke is visually rich with incredibly authentic sets, cultural cues, wardrobe and styling. I wanted to live in that prison bunkhouse. What was so bad? They got to hang-out, enjoy cold drinks, eat eggs and such.

I became obsessed with the old chain-gang garb, and own several beat-up, RRL denim chore coats because of it. Chore coats are an iconically American piece– worn by laborers, convicts, artists and plain everyday folk. And another American icon– the classic chambray workshirt is in there too.

There was nothing not to like in this film– even the hair. Carr the floor walker, and Blind Dick had very cool D.A.’s. And what about the incredible score, Harry Dean Stanton’s crooning, and Paul Newman singing and playing banjo on Plastic Jesus? The film is pregnant with comparisons of Luke to Jesus. Luke is their leader– his crucifixion pose after eating the eggs– “stop feeding off of me!” alluding to communion– Dragline as ‘Judas’ bringing the cops to Luke in the final scene– on and on. There are some many famous lines in Cool Hand Luke that I could be here all day– “shaking it up here boss!”

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January 5, 2009 by JP - 2 Comments

JEFFREY BANKS | GREAT AMERICAN FASHION DESIGNER

The impeccable designer and author - Jeffrey Banks.

Jeffrey Banks, great American fashion designer.

Jeffrey is one of those guys that seems to have been born with impeccable style. As a high-schooler working at the legendary shop Britches, he was tapped by Ralph to come work for him. Ralph became very fond of Jeffrey– he even lent him his own personal tuxedo and pumps for his Senior Prom. Polo was a small company back then, so he worked directly with Ralph as his design assistant, and they are still close today. Jeffrey, passionate about design, made the decision to leave Polo and finish his studies at Pratt Institute and Parsons. Jeffrey later designed for Calvin, and Merona Sportswear, among others. He launched his own menswear collection in 1977 to much acclaim, and is among the “who’s who” of fashion and a longtime member of the CFDA.

Jeffrey Banks incredible shearling coat.

One of my many obsessions in life is Shearling coats. So when Jeffrey showed me this clipping of a shearling trench he did years ago- well frankly, I lost it. Thanks Jeffrey. Yes, thanks for creating a huge, gaping hole in me that can now only be filled with a shearling trench coat. This is one of the most chic and sexy pieces I have ever laid eyes on. It’s no surprise though, coming from Jeffrey- one of the most dapper guys going, and a two-time winner of the Coty American Fashion Critics award. Continue reading →